To recap - my first bad luck omen happened in Tokyo at the Senso-ji Temple. I played the fortune game and drew the dreaded "Bad Fortune" card. It seemed like fun and games, like "Look at me I'm a tourist and I'm playing this game I don't understand! How fun!" Then things started to get weird. While doing the Hakone circuit, a black cat slowly crossed a lonely street right in front of me as I was walking. Time began to slow down as this happened...and then the cat turned around and just stared at me. Plenty of time for me to take a picture of him. (See my Hakone album) "Aww come on! You've got to be kidding me!" I said aloud. Then I wondered: how many bad luck omens even exist...are there any more I haven't received yet?
After preparing to leave for Kyoto, I went to the train station and had the staff reserve me a seat. Reservations are not necessary, but they guarantee you a seat so I figured why not. I stuffed my seat reservation in my pocket. When I went to board the train I looked at the ticket to find my seat. Train car number 13...seat 13A. OK, at this point I'm officially scared. Wouldn't you be?
Kyoto
My hotel is right near the train station, and it's the nicest hotel I've stayed at so far. Hotel Hokke Club Kyoto is clearly set up for international guests. The staff speaks pretty good English, and they provided me with an English "information guide" when I checked in. There were also a ton of Americans slob tourists walking around by the front desk. If you ever visit Kyoto - definitely book a hotel by the train station or you will have a hell of a time getting around town. In the picture below, Hokke Club Kyoto is on the left, and Kyoto Tower is on the right.
In Tokyo, you have to master the subway and train lines if you want to get around. Here in Kyoto, the bus system is king. The Kyoto train station is the main terminus for most of the bus routes. I hopped on the bus and headed for Kiyomizu-dera, which my guide book listed as the #1 must see location in Kyoto. It's an old Buddhist temple founded in the year 798. All of the present buildings are almost 400 years old. This place was difficult to find...check out my photo album to get a better idea of what I mean. When I finally got there it was absolutely beautiful. I know you've heard this before, but the pictures don't do it justice.
While walking around, I happened upon a class of kids heading down these stairs into an underground area. (There are school kids literally everywhere in Kyoto - must be a popular spot for field trips) A guide explained that you are supposed to hang onto a hand rail and make your way through a dark corridor. Then you enter a room with a turning stone and make a wish. This place is called the Womb of Zuigo-Bosatsu.
He kept talking about how I need to grip the hand rail...I was like "Yeah whatever, hand rail, got it" and made my way down the stairs. I followed the kids down the stairs, and it started getting darker. Then all of a sudden the light began to completely disappear...then it was gone. It was pitch black...I couldn't see an inch in front of my face. I kept walking, and I gripped the hand rail like I was hanging onto the edge of a cliff. How much longer would this tunnel go for? Should I turn around? Yeah, I should turn around and go back right now. Crap...if these school kids can do it so can I. Just keep walking...this went on for a couple minutes, and I experienced true fear...the real kind of fear where your primal instincts kick in and warn you that your life may be in peril. After what seemed like an eternity, I saw a dim light, and I saw the stone turning in the center of the room. I made a wish on the stone, and the exit wasn't far away. It felt like I went through a spiritual transformation after braving this tunnel.
Lo and behold, the fortune game was also located in this building. I marched over there and played it again - this time I received the 2nd luckiest fortune possible. The man assured me this was "Lucky lucky lucky fortune." My spirits were high. I continued walking around Kiyomizu-dera and saw a Buddhist ceremony, complete with warrior monks standing guard in full uniform. There were countless other curiosities here.
Before leaving Kiyomizu-dera, I also purchased a "Safety Travel" good luck charm. After the dark tunnel and the lucky fortune, I believe this charm represents the knockout punch to any bad luck that has been following me on this trip. Only time will tell I suppose. After leaving, I made my way north to Maruyama Park. This park is stunningly beautiful. It's the nicest park I've ever seen in my life. The park also has ducks walking around that allow humans to pet them. Note the name of the park - do you think there's any relation to Mr. Maruyama from the sumo match?
After exploring here, I went to Gion, which is the Geisha district. I did not see any real life Geisha, which are traditional Japanese female entertainers. According to my guide book, the only way you will ever meet a real Geisha is if you are politically connected to very powerful men in Japan, The book goes on to say that "No amount of money will do - you must know somebody personally."
My last stop for the day was at Nijo Castle. This place used to be the nerve center of the old shogunate that ruled feudal Japan when Kyoto was the capital. The grounds were amazingly beautiful, and they also allowed us to walk around inside the palace. When entering, we had to take off our shoes - this is also a recurring trend on this trip to Japan. No pictures were allowed inside...they even specifically mentioned no "sketching pictures" either. The most famous thing about this place is the wooden floorboards - they are made to chirp like nightingales when people walk on them. They were made this way on purpose to alert guards of any ninja trying to sneak around and assassinate the Shogun. Hundreds of years later, the floorboards still sound like nightingales. The original paintings on the wall are still intact as well.
While walking around the castle grounds, it was incredible to think that samurai warriors used to walk around in this same place and call it home. Today it was filled with slob tourists, but the beauty of this place lives on. I feel lucky to have been here, and wish I had more time in Kyoto. Tomorrow I'll be in Nara, and tomorrow night I'll be in Osaka. Let's hope my luck has turned around.
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